Munch

A feed for fuck-all

Earl’s

What: classic, USA-style sandwiches. 

Price: $10.00

When: 7:30am - 2pm, Monday - Friday. 

They forgot to convert their prices when this New York deli moved to Pōneke. 

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

At first glance, ‘juicy’ doesn’t sound like how a sandwich should be advertised. I like to eat mine, not drink them nor have them disintegrate in my hands. But sinking your teeth into a toasted Philadelphia Steak from Earl’s means realising that ‘juicy’ is actually exactly how you’ve always wanted a sandwich. And it is exactly how this one comes. 

Thinly-sliced beef steak is silky, the colour of blueberry sorbet, and dripping with juices. It isn’t skimped on either; the meat ribbons back and forth in layers. On top of the beef are slabs of grilled capsicums, bright red with flecks of char still on them. Then a heaping of mellow-sweet, browned onions fill out the roll, topped with a slathering of soft cheese. The fillings are top-notch and generous; there is no way this is financially-viable for them. Regardless, it’s delicious. The menu does allege that there's a horseradish gravy too. If so, it doesn’t show itself with any kick, which is a shame. Regardless, the sandwich certainly doesn’t need it for saturation—the steak, capsicum and onions keep it well juicy. 

Any sliced bread would crumble under this filling, but the hoagie-style roll used here holds up well. It is thick enough to hold its own, without becoming just a mouthful of bread. It’s toasted enough to be crisp without shattering on impact like a baguette, yet still springy and reasonably light. As half a sandwich's volume, your bread has got to be pretty good. With the quality and quantity of fillings that Earl’s offers, one would expect and perhaps even excuse that they present them on a cheaper, voluminous bread. Their bread isn’t artisan, sure, but it’s certainly no Supersoft. 

Earl’s is part of the Wellesley Hotel building, a skinny wooden door on the corner of Ballance and Maginnity street. It’s hard to find, but well worth it. While I haven’t yet had all of Earl’s menu, I plan to. So far it’s been hits all the way down. 

The Choice Lamb, with roasted garlic kumara, halloumi, watercress, and mint gravy is like a travel-sized Sunday roast. Kumara and halloumi will never disappoint, but they do have strong flavours. Luckily, there’s plenty of lamb to balance them out, while the mint gravy keeps things from being too stodgy. I don’t get too many opportunities to eat lamb, and this is one that I grab with both hands. 

Their Pastrami Reuben is also one to recommend, though I have no authentic comparison. The closest I’ve got to a New York deli was a Jewish grandma who I lived with for a year after high school, who’d stack pastrami, sauerkraut, mayonnaise and ketchup on sliced Vogel’s. Earl’s scales it all up a bit, but all the components are pretty similar. Whether that’s a kudos to Earl or Elle, I’m not sure. Regardless, the Pastrami Rueben hits it out of the park as well, being a slightly lighter option than the steak or lamb options, with more acidity and bite. 

I love bringing people to Earl’s and watching their disbelief fade as their sandwich is handed over the counter, and then shatter completely after their first bite. Somehow, it really is as good as it looks. A half-size costs you $10.00 and makes a decent lunch. I probably could put away an $18.00 full-size, but I’ve never needed to to feel full. Savvy customers might get a whole one and split it. If you can do so with a friend—then and there—by all means, but these sandwiches are limp and disappointing after a night in the fridge. Hot and crispy is the way to go. 

It is a shame that not all their sandwiches are available in half-sizes; vegans and vegetarians are forced to go big or go hungry. For those after a stack of tender meat and sauce in a bun, however, Earl’s is your hole-in-the-wall. It’s only 5 minutes walk from Pipitea Campus, the service is friendly and quick, and the sandwiches are fucking divine. 

Am I talking shit? Do you wildly disagree, or want to feed my ego by telling me I’m so right? Or have I overlooked a place so far that readers really need to know about? Send me something to chew on at: guy@salient.org.nz.