Dressing the Kiwi Bloke

Jackson McCarthy

(with advice from the elusive Caliso Slonclover)

My friends will find it deeply hilarious that I’m writing this piece, because (full disclosure) I have no idea what I’m doing. My fits aren’t fire, and I’m not what the kids call ‘steezy’. I love fashion, and have a lot of interest in the industry, but when I look at my wardrobe I feel a vast and indescribable sense of dread. What on earth was I thinking when I bought all this stuff? In my dreams, I’m staring at racks full of the latest JW Anderson menswear drops, but when I look at what I actually own (or could afford to own) all I see is a handful of lumpy shirts and a pair of Levi’s 501s. 

Often we think of fashion as having to do with ‘standing out from the crowd’; ‘being yourself’. But for the boys, fashion tends to serve a regulatory purpose: it fits us into boxes. Jocks wear sports shirts and trainers; festival-goers have the jorts and dad shirts on lock; indie street poets are swamped by baggy pants and blazers; and the rest of us stumble out the front door as inconspicuously as possible in jeans and sweaters. Another Hallensteins hoodie that says COLORADO SPRINGS 1989 on the back? Come on, lads.

It’s a struggle to dress well for uni, a hyper-public space where you’re clocked by hundreds of peers, friends, and classmates daily. Rather than standing out, isn’t it so much easier to fit in to preconceived archetypes of style? Clothes have a social language, after all: they’re a form of communication, signalling to others which groups we fit into in the vast fabric of social life. A chore jacket, for instance, has a particular class association attached to it, as does a pleated pant, a cable-knit turtleneck, or a cardigan. It’s so much easier to wear something generic than it is to take a risk on sending the wrong social signal, feeling embarrassed in clothes that don’t vibe with your vibe or resonate with how your friends have come to see you. 

Though it might be a struggle, I do think it’s important to be interested in fashion. We all wear clothes, so it’s worth paying attention to who’s making them and whether or not they’re being fairly compensated. It’s not like there’s any such thing as an ethical corporation, but if you (like me) can’t afford to spend big at local ateliers, it’s good to do your research on a company when purchasing new. 

The B Corp Certification is a pretty solid indicator for companies that have shown commitment to labour and environmental concerns. And, of course, op-shopping is probably the most ethical way to buy clothes. But really, buying less clothes is the most sustainable option: choosing well-made clothes and taking care of them for years, disentangling yourself from fast fashion’s nasty cycles of overconsumption and quick disposal.

It’s important to be interested in fashion for aesthetic reasons as well as ethical ones, though. Clothes, like food, are at the intersection between human need and aesthetic pleasure — so having an ‘interest’ in fashion is also about keeping an eye on the latest trends and designs coming out of the big fashion houses. On the world stage, Jonathan Anderson’s masterful tailoring, androgynous silhouettes, and economy of colour have been revolutionary in contemporary menswear; Maison Margiela’s relaxed shape-and-drape Parisian swag has been a delight to see develop, too; similarly (but conversely), it’s hard to look past what Hedi Slimane did at Celine for the skinny fit in the mid-10s; and I’d be remiss not to mention Richardo Tisci’s stint at Givenchy, or Virgil Abloh’s Off-White, both of whom largely defined what we call ‘streetwear’ these days. 

Honestly, it’s not that I own a single piece of clothing from any of these high fashion houses, it’s that just being aware of their work on a very surface level, sorting the genuinely beautiful from the slew of images we see everyday, means that when I walk into a store I can actually afford, I know what I like and what style I’m after.

Locally, things are much more affordable, but feeling a bit dire — the amazing Thom Morison just closed up shop, a designer rare even among Aotearoa’s brands for manufacturing locally, designing thoughtful, simple collections slowly and with intention (is there anyone else in this country doing menswear like he did?). But there are some brilliant people holding out for our ready-to-wear menswear scene: Porter James Sports is really taking off, their trendy dart-knee pants formalising the op-shopped baggy look with real verve and eloquence, among a range of goofy business shirts and kitschy tees — and with a Melbourne pop-up under their belt, it’s exciting to see where this brand might take us; meanwhile Dayne Johnston, who designed dark, groovy menswear at Zambesi for twenty years, has just jumped ship to Kowtow, where this writer holds out hope he’ll bring a bit more range to that brand’s offering; and Checks Downtown have this kind of blokey ‘she’ll be right’ thing going on that belies genuinely quality fabrics and finish at a very reasonable price point. 

Ok, so, there's plenty to chew on in the menswear industry, and plenty of ideas to pontificate, even if we don’t have wardrobes full of designer clothes. And if we’re gonna cast fast fashion aside, too, both for the obvious ethical reasons, and for the fact that the cuts of the garments are just so ugly, generic, and boxy, then where’s the kiwi bloke supposed to shop? Let me know if you find out. But for now, here are some things to do and think about. And, for what it’s worth, I hope you know that I’m in the muck of it with you, grasping around in the dark for mother dearest. Won’t somebody tell us what to do?

Op-shopping

Boys, we have it hard. Op shops don’t really display a great variety in their mens sections, either in size or in style, and it can get boring pretty quickly browsing an endless supply of size large oxford shirts. My advice is to go for fabric fabric fabric — tweed, cashmere, wool, velvet, corduroy — anything that stands out for its quality and grandpa swag. You might need to compromise on fit when op-shopping, but never compromise too hard. One size too big or too small is probably as far as you should go, I reckon. 

Downsizing 

Welcome to uni, bitches. Overconsumption isn’t cool anymore — it’s time to grow up. This is the opportune moment to get all those random pieces you never wear out of your life. Keep only the garments that you love and make you feel hot, and buy only things you’ll actually get wear out of. Use your best judgement, be decisive, and trust your instincts.

Basics

Nothing beats a good basic. I get literally all of mine from AS Colour, a local brand that specialises in blank, coloured, cotton garments. Don’t gawk at the prices — well-made basics cost a bit, but they do last; I’ve had the same handful of tees for about four years and running. They don’t just have to be complimentary, either, longing to be layered under a jacket or sweater — for our more stylistically conservative boys, a crisp, fitted white tee could be the centrepiece of a great look. 

Details

As important as basics are, details can really make or break an outfit. Embroidery is cool, personal, and personable. Accessories and jewellery add a lot, even if minimal: a scarf, a watch, and a ring, for instance. Striking the right between basics and details is probably key to the essential ‘steez’ factor in menswear — it should look effortless. And don’t forget that the right bag could be a chance to compliment the colours and textures of the fit, too. 

Dad’s wardrobe 

Inherit any good clothes, shoes, and accessories from parents and siblings where possible, even if a bit worn. Pieces with family history and sentimental value are always worth taking to the tailor or the cobbler for a bit of mending. You’re the inheritor of your parents’ jeans, not just their genes, and it’s your duty to wear them well. Dad’s old dancing boots from the 80s? Indescribably cool. 

A woman’s touch

Whether she’s a girlfriend or a girl-space-friend, we’ve all got that one stylish diva in our lives. Ask her to take you shopping, and listen to her opinions. The womens’ section is worth a browse, too — playing with gender has always been a hallmark of the well-dressed man.